A traveler review post on www.tripadvisor.com recently claimed that Tarapoto, Peru, was “dangerous without an armed escort”. The traveler had definitely had a bad experience: “we were held up by armed bandits and were shocked how routine it all is”.
However, I was pretty taken aback by this review. I’ve been here 5 months now. I am still surprised at how relaxed the place is. I haven’t had any problems so far, touch wood. I haven’t felt threatened once here, and I don’t think it’s just luck.
Updates on Tarapoto Safety
If I do run into any problems, bad neighborhoods, dangerous routes etc I’ll be sure to inform you. So far I can’t think of one safety issue that has to be mentioned. Even the normal “South American safety procedures” seem like overkill here. I have pretty much let my guard drop, and that’s something I haven’t often done in all my time in South America, from coast to coast, from sea to shining sea.
That’s not to say that any new arrivals should do the same. Just don’t stay away because your budget won’t stretch to hiring armed guards…..
Hi Tony, I actually have a question, rather than a comment, but it relates to a safety issue. I’m hoping you can share some information since you seem the best poised to provide an answer: I am a single female traveling alone to Tarapoto by plane from Iquitos so I can catch a bus to Chachapoyas. I am concerned about arriving in the evening – 8:30pm (this is the only flight available) and then having to get on a cab and then finding a hostel for the night until the next day when I can catch a bus.
Having traveled to other places, like India and Vietnam, I try to keep safe by not venturing at night by myself…Anyway, I would very much appreciate a reply at your earliest convenience and perhaps a few suggestions re. mode of transport or places to stay, with safety in mind.
Many thanks!
PS You might know someone who can be my armed escort for the evening!! 🙂
Hi Marie,
I’ve never actually flown in to Tarapoto so I’m not entirely sure what the set up is re. transport into town from the airport. However, you will probably have two options. Taxis (as in cars) aren’t too common here but I wouldn’t be surprised if some serve the airport. If there are shared taxis then that could be a good option for getting to the town center. Otherwise, I’m sure there will be a whole bunch of mototaxis down there. I’ve never had any problems with mototaxi drivers, and I doubt if you will either. However, I am certainly in no position to comment on this from a single female traveller’s point of view. The bigger bus companies here have a few “registered” mototaxi drivers who serve their terminals. The airport may well have a similar service in which case this could be a good option (the drivers would probably be wearing something with the airline’s logo on display).
I’ll ask some of the locals about this, they might have some more definite info. I’ll post a comment if I find anything out.
Hostal San Antonio is a decent place to stay right near the main square(it’s in Lonely Planet if you’ve got a copy). The people there seem pretty nice – it’s where I stayed when I first arrived here.
Depending upon when you arrive, my girfriend or I (or both) might be able to get down to the airport to meet you if you like. However, we have to go to Lima on Saturday (back in about a week) so that could be a problem. If you are arriving within the next three days then let me know. Any other questions, feel free to ask.
Tony.
Hello Tony,
Thank you so much for the prompt and very detailed response. I’ve been reading your articles in Suite 101 and I have to say, they are the most thorough and helpful write-ups – from tipping etiquette to budget vs luxury buses – I’ve ever come across in both online and offline worlds. The only thing though was that your articles or even Suite 101 as a site did not come up as the first few entries in any of my detailed Google searches. I only came upon it after coming across tarapotolife on my third attempt to research about Tarapoto. For the detail and helpfulness of your articles, I’m surprised it’s not getting more “airtime” on the Internet…(can I help post your link, perhaps on my FB page?)
You are very kind to offer to meet me at the airport (with or without your girlfriend). I find the kindness of strangers whenever I’m in a strange land so touching and life-affirming; perhaps that’s why I like to travel so much and pay it forward whenever I can. I actually won’t be going to Peru until March (and in Tarapoto until mid-May) but wanted to lay the groundwork while I’m here at home, so I won’t have to be online too much when I’m actually on the road.
Thank you for the Hostal recommendation. Between this, perhaps additional information re transportation, and your offer, I feel much better about booking the flight to Tarapoto. I will check in again in a few days just in case you were able to unearth more stuff.
In the meantime, enjoy your trip to Lima and look forward to the possibility of meeting up over a pisco or cerveza.
Cheers,
Marie
Thanks Marie!
Most of my Peru articles at Suite101 are quite new – to rise to the top and stay at the top of Google searches they need a good six months or so to mature. That’s the idea, anyway! There’s also a lot of competition for Peru-related keywords; unfortunately, there are some big websites who can monopolise a lot of search terms while not actually providing much decent info. I’m gunning for them though!
If you have any backpacking friends who might be interested in my Peru articles then feel free to post any links on FB. I did a round-up blog post at Suite which is kind of handy:
http://www.suite101.com/blog/tonydunnell/peru_travel_info_backpacking_peru_holidays_in_the_land_of_the_inca_civilization
I’ll find out some more about the airport and maybe put the info in a fresh blog post. And I’m always up for a pisco or cerveza!
Tony.
I posted your link on my FB wall – pretty hand compendium! I’m hoping some of my intrepid friends would actually check it out, since it really is a great blog.
Given that you are in a pretty remote place, if you can think of something I can bring you and your gf from the US (as long as it won’t take too much space in my backpack :-), let me know. Then I’d feel better should I need to take you up on your pick-up offer.
Anyway, I’m curious to read what other updates you’ll have leading up to my departure in a few weeks!
Ciao ciao,
Marie
Oops, I mean, pretty handY compendium…
Dear Tony and Marie both! Salutations from a very white and cold Michigan. I just returned from my fourth trip to Tarapoto last month. I have been treating with a shaman there since 2007 (lupus and brain tumor) and plan to move there on a semi-permanent basis this coming fall.
Marie-if Tony cannot accomodate you, I have a host of angels that can!
Re: Airport- once leaving the baggage area you’ll go outside to find several many mototaxis waiting. My fiances best buddy is a taxista and could wait for you if you like. He is a trusted lifetime friend and you would not only be safe but probably annoyingly overprotected. Are you traveling alone?
I also have “family” that would be most helpful to you in anything that you need. Do you speak Spanish?
I WILL tell you that I did have an unfortunate experience returning from Lamas in the middle of the night but that was stupidity on my part. I lived in Mexico for 5 years, I speak the language and instinct took over so I got out of that one! There are pickpockets and “undesirables” everywhere on the globe but with common sense and being aware of your environment you will have no problem.
Between the plant medicine and the CARINO from these jungle people I am being cured of every physical, emotional and social ailment I’ve ever had. The general disposition of a Tarapotino is “tranquilo.” They take life at a slow pace, are grateful for every morsel of food and even when tempers flare,there is a line of respect usually not crossed. Do you see that as well Tony?
I am currently in the planning stages of making this huge transition… Each time I have been there it has been for either a month or six weeks at a time. I plan to be there October-ish, perhaps for my birthday. Do you have any advise for ME, Tony?
Hope to hear from you soon.
PS….I agree with Marie… your articles are much more earthy and honest than most, they are informative and appreciated! I will for sure hit you up when I get there in the fall… a ver un paisano mio. I will come back to Michigan for Christmas but then return to Tara until spring finds Michigan. Question: honest! How much am I gonna need to live on a month?
Muchisimas Meymi! How very kind of you to respond AND to offer your angels! At the very least, I would love to engage your fiance’s taxista friend for the ride from the airport to the hostel that Tony recommended, Hostal San Antonio. I’d appreciate the overprotection, as I am traveling alone, hablo un poco castellano, but I am very rusty; However, I also have traveled to enough places by myself – including overwhelming and by no means tranquilo India – to be able to roll with the punches, and enjoy it.
I am very happy to hear that you have found the healing that you need for your conditions. In a way you’re very fortunate to have the open mind to explore ancient treatments and I commend you for leaving the midWest to seek it! It’s too bad I will be missing you this time around, but I wish you all the best in the transition.
Now that I think of it, perhaps you know of someone or an organization in Tarapoto who could use a bit of help – perhaps tutoring some kids, for a few days? Unfortunately, I am not staying there long enough to make a difference; just a few days to be a pest, if you know what I mean? I find that sometimes volunteering, especially if only for a handful of days is more of hassle to the host organization than it’s worth. So on second thoughts, scrap that, unless you know of a specific situation. 🙂
That said, I appreciate your post and I would like to keep in touch to get some additional information.
In the meantime, good luck with your move and may you find an unending flow of peace in your journey.
Om shanti,
Marie
Hello Meymi and Marie,
I’ve just got back from Lima with my family, sorry for taking so long to respond. Thanks for all the nice comments, much appreciated.
Marie, looks like between Meymi and I you should be pretty well covered on arrival. I’m sure there are some places you could volunteer for a few days, especially teaching kids. Almost any school or institute would love to have you sit in on some English classes. I’ll keep my eyes open for some more options, it’s not something I’ve looked into much as of yet. Perhaps Meymi will have some more ideas.
Meymi, it sounds like you understand Tarapoto life pretty well! It’s a great place and very relaxed generally. About monthly costs, a lot depends on your accommodation. As a rough estimation, one person can live comfortably on 1000 soles per month if renting a room for a long stay (150 to 300 soles a month). A lot depends on whether you eat out or cook for yourself, go drinking or dancing often etc. If you stay with friends or find a cheap room, you could probably live on 600-700 soles a month – but that would be fairly simple living (the best way to live if you ask me!).
Hope that helps a little – living costs is another blog post I need to write. I’ll get there one day!
Thanks, Tony. (any other questions feel free to ask)
Welcome back, Tony. Yes, it looks like I can have Meymi’s taxista friend to sort out my airport woes. That said, my offer still stands if you or your gf needs anything from the States – I’ll be happy to bring it to you…:-)
When I arrive in Tarapoto I will make sure to come by for that pisco.
Btw, do I need to make an advanced reservation with the Hostel? or should I just show up in the late evening?
Ciao ciao,
m
Namaste Marie and Tony,
Marie, when your arrival date nears we will certainly connect regarding your transportation. Mas o menos cuando es? Your taxistas name will be Rene; he’s honest, humilde, of good humor but speaks absolutely no English. You are obviously a fellow “aventurera” and they are generally just “good folk” in Tarapoto…
Regarding volunteer work: I’ve been trying to find an NGO or non-profit that works in Tara since 07. The closest thing I found was a small mission there once was in Lamas for street kids. It was a 2 month thing in passing, yadda yadda. Now, while there are quite a few evangelcal churches that “obran”, or “work”, there has been very little by way of direct help to the community outside their congregations. I honestly don’t know where to send you. I am in the process of legalizing my own non-profit and plan to further plant seeds there. Tony, maybe you could poke around on this one.
You will be coming from Iquitos, where I have yet to visit, which is mucho mas grande than Tara with loads of lodges and booming tourism. Tarapoto is a big town or a little city with some nice attractions but it won’t be anything like Iquitos. However, A MUST is to go to the Laguna Venezia and have someone tell you the legend of the “Madre Boa.” You can be served lunch there, have a drink and swim if you dare! The MAIN attraction for me is a pair of wolly monkeys of whom I have become attached. One is very lovable, touchable…I am content to leave the other one where he is!!! They are still wild animals and have very BIG teeth! It will be a grand experience I assure you.
You will also want to go to Lamas- read a little about the Lamista History beforehand, and make sure you see the castle! (I seriously want to know “que clase de hombre” would erect a castle in the middle of a very humble and poor town!) However, the construction is beautiful and worthy to see. I would buy most of your crafts right in Lamas unless you’ve spent your money in Iquitos- they will try to take advantage of you in Tarapoto for sure… Tony, make sure that you “gift” Marie something with a Wayururu bead! (Must always be gifted and not bought for one’s self.)
Moyombamba is a little jaunt and so is Sauce but either one worthy to visit.
Tarapoto is full of myths, legends and spirits as is the jungle entire… and yes, I consider myself blessed, even if it meant that I had to get ill to get to the rain forest … I went there looking for plant medicine but keep coming back to the people, their simplicity, their gratitude, demeanor and tranquility… and with new missions in life. Breathe, Meymi, just breathe.
Tony, I would most certainly be willing to “subscribe” to your site… I don’t know anything about Paypal and terms and whatnot, but it’s worthy and I know it goes a long way. Hit me back when you have time. And for your Cost of Living blog- I wanna know what you pay for utilities, water, etc… internet… is there cable with English channels? (I don’t know why I ask cause I never watch television here!) Have you checked into buying an individual moto? Do you conduct overseas banking? In what part of town do you live?
I’m SO glad I found this website!
Maraming salamat, Meymi! (That’s thank you in Tagalog) I plan to arrive in Tarapoto on March 15th or 18th, depending on the Star peru flight I can get on. It arrives at 8:30pm, that much I know. I will certainly look for Rene and make sure I’ve brushed up con mi Castellano. But yes, let’s touch base closer to the date. I am leaving for Peru on March 22nd and will probably have limited access to the computer – I try to stay away from it when I’m traveling, actually, 🙂 So I will make sure I sort out my plans as soon as I can and let you know. Estas bien?
The retreat I’m going to is actually an ayahuasca retreat with female curanderas for 12 days. I like the fact that the healers are women for a change. 🙂 It’s a bit steep, but I figured it is worth it and I can travel on a shoestring budget the rest of the time. Here’s the link if you’re curious: templeofthewayoflight.org.
Thanks for all the info re NGOs or lack thereof. 🙂 I guess the first step would be to visit a church…I was born and raised Catholic, so it won’t be a stretch for me to align myself with their works. I will look into visiting Lamas and Laguna Venezia as well,but not sure about Sauce and Moyombaba. I’m trying to make my way to Kuelap and Chachapoyas en route to Lima, where I catch my flight on May 31. Too bad I am not staying longer, but like you, I hope to find my way back to Peru again and again.
Alright my dear, thanks again so much for sharing your knowledge. I hope to meet you sometime in Tarapoto, if not in this lifetime, then certainly the next!
I’ll be in touch with you again later before I leave on the 22nd so I can let you know when I am arriving in Tara for sure and get Rene’s details.
Buena suerte!
AFFIRMATIVE, Marie, on the “if not this life, then the next!” : ) We are on the same page…. however, I am a smite confused regarding your dates… the dates overlap and I’m not sure what’s what. I am in constant contact with my family there- you just lemme know! I have taken ayahuasca several times now- you are in for the ultimate cosmic trip of your life… you will leave a changed woman, of that I promise! I am very happy for you and your decision to partake,,,open your spirit to all the cosmic truths that exist! Where do you call home? I’m in Michigan.
Fantastic! Sorry for the confusion…I plan to arrive Tarapoto either on Tuesday, May 18th, in the evening, flying in from Iquitos.
I leave the U.S. on March 22nd, two Mondays from now, but I prefer to make plans before I leave because I’d like to limit my interaction with a computer when I travel. 🙂
That said, perhaps you can give me Rene’s contact information? Also, I would appreciate some insight on payment and tipping and all that. Traveling in developing countries always sparks a certain kind of self-awareness and self-consciousness. I want to be respectful and at the same time not be insulting…I am sure you know what I am talking about!
Tony, I am sure you’ve got 2 cents you’d like to share on this matter.
I AM looking forward to a transformation during the retreat. I just turned 40 last Friday and I feel that I am the cusp of something mind-blowing. This is the beginning of my second act in this lifetime.
As for home, good question…I’ve been struggling with it since I left my first home, the Philippines, when I was 17. I’ve bounced between both coasts in the US, specifically San Francisco and New York, where I currently live. So for now, NY is home. “For now” being the operative words!
Con Cariño
HEY! MARCH 25…??? WHERE ARE YOU MARIE? TONY, HAVE YOU HEARD FROM MARIE?
I haven’t heard anything yet! Marie should be in Peru now, so I guess we’ll hear something at some point…
Tony and/or Marie,
Is there a way that I can email you privately and give you my fiances’ home phone number? I don’t want to post it publically. Rene has been called to Juanjui to work for PILSEN (he has a mototaxi and paints advertisements on the side) So… my fiance is dispuesto a la hora to come get Marie and accompany you to where ever you choose. He doesn’t speak a lick of ingles except for “hey you” and “oooh myyy goat” ‘oh my god’…right- so you’re on your own!
If you have prior hotel arrangements please let us know and if you need help with that- either Tony or one of my people can. In fact, if you want… I could ask a family member to rent you a room – whichever you choose. I also know someone who would do your laundry (by hand of course)…you just lemme know.
Tarapoto is charming… enchanting even- but what breathes life into this vibe is the flavor and culture of the people. They are adorable, open yet discerning, jolly, and what we would refer to as “good folk.” I hope that chance meets circumstance and fate is born from whatever god that guides you- and that you get to know the people!
Regarding tipping: It is not a general practice to leave a tip…but I usually do- but that’s usually at the mercadillo to the little old lady who cooks the greatest flippin chicken for breakfast on the face of this planet! anywho- just be careful pulling money in and out of your pockets~ that’s always good advise.
As for me and mine, I am actively in the planning stages for this traslado. Today I squared away some documents with the VA and then on to powers of attorney and whatnot. Financial issues is a biggie!
Tony, you are from the UK and all banking cooperatives are different…but do you know the BEST way to recieve wired or deposited money? Do you know of an international bank that reaches the US to Tarapoto direct and not just Lima? I will be still maintaining payments here in the US and will have monies sent monthly. I got reeeeeeally nervous this last time recieving my money at Western Union… a group of teens were hangin’ ouside and although I had two grown men with me, I was still reeeeeally nervous.
I should be there anytime starting August…I’m going to miss La Fiesta de los Juanes but my Mamihuasi will have some waiting for me when I get there anyway! So enjoy that custom, it’s beautiful. Everybody heads to the river.
I will be awaiting a post from Marie…. youwhooooo… Tarapoto Life to Marieeeee… let us know where you are and that you are safe sista and if you still plan to arrrive in Tara!
Carinos, Meymi
Hi Meymi,
If you go to the “About Tarapoto Life” page there is a contact form where you can email me privately. As for money transfers etc, I’m not too sure. Scotiabank is Canadian so it might be worth checking them out. I’m really not very good with money matters. I’ll ask one of my freinds here, he’s good with that kind of stuff.
Cheers, Tony.
Hey all,
Anybody else find the hotels in tarapoto to be overpriced. I´m a canadian travelling through peru and i just got to tara with my peruvian gf looking for a nice 2-3 star matrimonial suit. The taxi drivers here seem nice but are dishonest, they keep pushing hotels they are commissioned by. Getting off the bus we grabed a taxi into the center looking for a nice place to stay. The driver told us everything was full near the center and he ever took us to a couple hotels to prove it. He then insisted we stay at a place 5 blacks away from the main square, I was tired so reluctantly i agreed, it was 60 soles. Later that night we decided to awake and walk to the square for something to bite where we found many vacanthotels/hostels, for about 60-80soles for a matrimonial. Its about 40soles for anything equal to that in lima or chimbote(where i departed from for tara). Anyway, I´m still looking for a nice place to stay for my 1 week stay here. Im also looking for a very nice tour into the waterfalls so maybe you guys can recommend somethin quickly. anyways im looking forward to taking in the this jungle city.
cheers
Hi David,
The hotels here do seem to be on the expensive side. You might be better off looking at alojamientos rather than actual starred hotels. Often, there isn’t much difference between these and the hotels and some of them have more character. Also, if you are staying for a week you can almost certainly get a discount (especially in the alojamientos).
I’m no expert on Tarapoto hotels because I’ve never needed to stay in one. However, I looked around a little when my parents came to visit and there are some nice ones on Jr Alegria Arias de Morey (go to the corner of the main square where Scotiabank is. Take the street to the left of Scotiabank and turn right at the end. Head up that road and you should see a bunch of alojamientos on the next block up). Even if these places charge 50-60 for a matrimonial you should be able to knock them down for a week’s stay. Easter could also be having an effect on prices.
I’m not too sure what the best tours are for the waterfalls – I went to Ahuashiyacu a few weeks ago by mototaxi. It cost 40 soles for 3 of us to go to the falls. This included the return trip and the guy waited for us for an hour while we went swimming (just don’t pay the driver until you get back and ignore him if he tries to raise the price a little!).
As for taxi drivers in Tarapoto, I think they are pretty decent generally. That thing with the commissioned hotels happens everywhere in Peru as far as I’ve seen, it’s a pain in the rear!
Seeing as you are here for a week, you might want to check out the Petroglyphs of Polish which are pretty interesting (and a nice short ride out of town) and the Tabacalera del Oriente cigar “factory” (in town, Jr. Martinez de Compagnon 1138, 2 soles max by mototaxi, get there early). The cigar place is awesome – all hand rolled and you can watch the women rolling them (if you smoke cigars you’ll be in heaven, if not it’s still really interesting).
Hope that helps a little. If you find a hotel, tour guide or anything else to recommend then it would be great if you could post a follow-up comment about it.
Thanks, and welcome to Tarapoto!
Tony.
Happy Snappy Easter all.
Tony: another good section to this blog: Hotels, Hostels, and Hospitalities!
David, take a mototaxi to La Laguna Venezia. It’s a small enchanted inland lake that has some interesting myths… You can order from a modest menu with a modest price list and chillax with a couple of monkeys that live there. There are some really cool festivities going on in Lamas right now as well…very colorful and folkloric.
Tony, any word from Marie yet?
Best, Meymi
hello meymi, hello tony,
sorry i{ve been MIA. i actually wrote a lengthy email back but it got lost when i failed to put in an email address. and now i gotta run because i have an appointment in half an hour. that siad, meymi, please feel free to send me an email at this address: picarina@gmail.com
i will write more again later.
in the meantime, sending you both very good wishes. i am so happy to be in peru!!
xoxoxom
Hello my dears!
I didn´t realize I’ve been MIA for so long! Almost a month! I´ve been in Huaraz busily volunteering my heart out. I am helping teach 5 classes: kindergarten, prep, 1st grade, 2nd grade and 7th grade. I have to admit, I prefer the young ones. Their innocence is so much better than apathy or the awkwardness of the pubescents!
I’ve done a bit of trekking in the Andes, with a trusty horse as my sidekick. I love tooling about the countryside on a good old fashioned criollo horse. I´ll take them anytime over a skittish Arabian. I have to admit, the altitude did a number on me a couple of times we went up higher than 4,000meters. I am looking forward to being on ground level again.
So Meymi, Tony, I’ve decided to take the boat instead of a plane to Tara from Iquitos, which will essentially dock at Yurimaguas where I then take a bus for Tara. I figured it{s really about the journey and how! That said, Meymi, I am not sure if Rene will be around then, but if you email me his cell phone number, I can text him perhaps? I have a Peru sim card, so contacting him via mobile will be much more convenient for the both of us. Since I am taking the boat, which can take anywhere from 3 to 5 days, I really have no idea when I will be arriving in Tara, although it should be somewhere around the week of May 18th.
I will do my darnedest to visit Lamas and Laguna Venezia. No worries. I will make sure to buy some crafts in Lamas and not blow my soles in Iquitos. 🙂
alright my dears, thanks for keeping me top of mind. I am loving Peru a lot and look forward to experiencing the jungle life.
Besos y abrazos,
marie
Hi Marie,
Good to hear you’re having fun. Great idea about the boat, a much more interesting way to travel. I haven’t done that boat trip yet but it’s on my list as soon as I have some free time. Anyway, good to know that you’re OK and in Peru. If you have any problems or need any info let me know.
Have fun,
Tony.
Hello Tony,
I”ll make sure to keep good notes so I can report to you how the boat trip is. I think the most uncomfortable part of the trip is the bus ride from Yurimaguas to Tara! Fingers crossed and will see you soon!
cheers,
marie
I agree. I have been living in Tarapoto one year so far and I have never had a problem. I think Tarapoto is one of safest places all over Peru.
Hi Daniel. Whenever I go traveling in Peru, it always reminds me of how relaxed and safe Tarapoto is — and I’m always happy to get back home, despite the heat and the constant buzz of the mototaxis. And after living here for about seven years, I’m still a big fan of this town.
Hi Tony,
I have been reading your articles about Tarapoto and they are great!
I have a question about mosquitoes, how bad are they in Tarapoto, is it something to worry about in the town or more if you go to the jungle. Are malaria, dengue and zika common in the area?
Thanks in advance,
Natalia
Hi Natalia. It’s not really something to worry about. There are cases of dengue and malaria, but not to such an extent that you need to be concerned. As far as I know zika isn’t an issue here.