In my quest to find an alternative to the good but not exceptional Pollo Marino (near the main square), I’ve been asking the locals for cevicheria recommendations. Most have recommended Pollo Marino without hesitation, but a few other names cropped up, including Monsefú.
The Monsefú Restaurant in Tarapoto
Monsefú is located at Jr. Abancay 445, down in the Barrio Huayco (in the lower end of Tarapoto). It sits on a wide but nondescript street, well away from the buzz of the town centre. The quiet location doesn’t appear to be a major problem in terms of customers — the place was reasonably full when I walked in at about 1.30 pm on a Sunday.
A smiling waiter quickly approached, asking where we would like to sit. There were plenty of options — Monsefú is a big, high-ceilinged establishment with two large rooms, both packed with wooden tables and fringed by rustic decorations. Despite being quite dark inside, the restaurant has a comfortable atmosphere.
Seated, our attentive waiter quickly brought two menus and a plate of cancha (toasted corn). The cancha was the best I’ve ever tasted. The only drink left was chicha de jora, a type of fermented maize drink. Like the cancha, the chicha was exceptional (chicha de jora, when poorly prepared, is disgusting). Things were looking good, so the main meal promised much…
The Taste Test
We ordered a ceviche mixta and a jalea mixta (typically, a mountainous plate of battered or breaded seafood served with fried yuca). I have a slight obsession for the latter, so I know it well. Pollo Marino does a decent jalea mixta, but it could be better (the best I’ve ever had was in Lambayeque, but it’s not really fair to compare coast with jungle when talking about cevicherias).
The food arrived in good time. Taste buds jangling in anticipation, we dug in. And we were disappointed.
Yep, despite the good start, Monsefú was a letdown. The ceviche mixta was average, especially considering the S/.17 price tag. As for the jalea mixta, it was the worst I’ve ever had. The batter was heavy and oily, similar to the batter used on cheap Chinese sweet-and-sour pork balls, obliterating the taste of the individual chunks of seafood within. The large slab of battered fish beneath the smaller nuggets was soggy, tasteless and riddled with bones. At S/.27, this was enough to make a grown man weep into his fermented maize.
Recreo Turistico Monsefú
If you’re on a diet of toasted and fermented corn, then I highly recommend Monsefú. If not, stay clear.
Monsefú doesn’t actually bill itself as a cevicheria, despite the large number of fish dishes on the menu (they also prepare duck, goat and other meat dishes). In fact, Monsefú seems to be in the midst of an identity crisis. Its full title is “Recreo Turistico Monsefú” — recreos turisticos normally have a swimming pool and a few games areas, but Monsefú has none.
I asked the young waiter why it bore the title of “Recreo Turistico…” He gave me a blank stare, seemingly pondering the issue for the first time, and, after a pause, said, “I don’t know, we don’t even have a swimming pool.” Oh well.
The Quest Continues: Recommendations, Anyone?
I mentioned my Monsefú experience to a few of my neighbours. They said it was a good place back in the day (it’s an old establishment), but it’s gone downhill in recent years.
So, the quest continues… Next up is Cebicheria Waikiki, as recommended by my friendly local shopkeeper. I’m wide open to all Tarapoto cevicheria recommendations, so please give me any details in the comments box below. Cheers!
Try the Italian joint, Chalet Venecia.
Tell her Herb recommended it!
s/.27 is a hefty price for any dish in Tarapoto. Give Chef Monica and Christian a try! Certainly not a Cebicheria but when I ate there it was pretty darn good.
It is easy to find and easier to find your way home again…. Sober or not!
H
I’ll hopefully get round to writing about Chalet Venecia soon. Just need to take some more photos…
I’ve never had ceviche in Tarapoto, but would love to try it there. Even more, I’d like to hear about and then try some of the local dishes that are popular there but basically unknown in Lima. I’ve had my share of ceviche, papas a la huancaina, mondongo, anticuchos, lomo saltado, arroz con pollo, pollo a la brasa and all of those other popular dishes in Lima. I’d be interested in knowing about what wonderful dishes that there are around Tarapoto that you would be hard pressed to find in Lima.Thanks Tony.
Hi Vinny,
So far, the best ceviche options I know of in Tarapoto are Pollo Marino and Conchas de Sus Mares (I think that’s what it’s called).
You’re right, I definitely need to write more about some of the traditional Tarapoto jungle dishes. Chorizo and cecina are two of the most famous regional meats here — but both are easy to prepare at home, so I never order them when I eat out. But I’ll try to write more about regional cuisine — there’s some great stuff around here.
El nombre de el segundo restaurant suena gracioso. It´s hilarious, I think they put that name playing with the double meaning of that. The one “shells of their seas” and the other one an insult in Peru ( la concha de su madre or concha tu madre ) sorry but i had to write it down just to graphic what I meant.
I´ve never been to Tarapoto I hope i can go there soon. My father was born over there.
What kind of fish they use, fish of the rivers? I tried once ceviche de doncella en Tingo Maria and I prefer pescado de mar for ceviche.
Saludos.
Hi VicMan,
I know what you mean — I always have to say the name very carefully! I guess it’s a deliberate play on words, but I’m not too sure. I actually ate their last week (will write about it soon). It’s a great place, good food and very lively.
A lot of the ceviche here is made from river fish. I agree with you — sea fish is better.
Cheers!
My wife grew up in Tarapoto and we last visited in January 2006 (we live in Florida). The best restaurant I can remember was Rincon Sureno. I’m sure you must have dined there before. I also enjoyed a street vending/cooking area along the road leading to the airport where they all served warm anticuchos (among other exotic foods) in the late afternoon. We appreciate your website, nice work!