My quest to find the best ceviche in Tarapoto has gone from bad to worse. On the recommendation of a neighbour, I went to Cebicheria Waikiki (Jr. Alonso de Alvarado 139). This place makes Monsefú look like a fish-lovers paradise.
I really don’t have much to say about Waikiki. The “cebiche especial de Waikiki” (S/.16) was average — too raw for my taste and with little evidence of anything “special”.
The jalea mixta (S/.20) was, in a word, pathetic. This plate of oily, heavily battered seafood now takes the crown of worst jalea mixta ever. The chef even managed to make the fried yuca disgusting, a skill that can only be mastered after many years of neglectful, passionless cooking.
Everything looked and tasted like it had been prepared days earlier, frozen, then lackadaisically refried before being dumped on a plate and smothered with diced onions. Even now, an hour after eating, I’m finding it hard to shift the taste of this monstrosity, whose bulk I left half-uneaten on the table.
Cebicheria Waikiki… Don’t go.
Possibly the worst jalea mixta in Peru.
It may be, Tony, that the best cebiche that you’ll get will be the home made variety, at least it will be the safest. It’s been my experience that it’s nearly impossible to get properly made cebiche in restaurants. I’ve found it to be rare that restaurants properly marinate the fish, and chefs in restaurants almost always put the lemon on it right before it’s served. Not only does this result in crummy cebiche , but also tends to make ithe fish more dangerous to eat. I’m pretty certain that it’s probably the same in Tarapoto
Hi Vinny. The ceviche in Pollo Marino and in Conchas de Sus Mares is pretty good, definitely better than I could prepare at home!
I tend to order jalea mixta as I get a bit bored half way through a big plate of ceviche (I prefer it as a starter). The jalea in Pollo Marino is good, but I thought I could find something better. Not much luck so far! I need to revisit Conchas de Sus Mares, perhaps next weekend.
The way things are looking, I think Pollo Marino and Conchas are probably the best options.
Hola Tony!
Thanks for the heads-up on the status of ceviche in Tarapoto. I’m in Lima and as you may be aware, there are over 11 thousand cebicherias in this city, ranging from low quality to outstanding. And price is not an indicator of quaity. In fact, my favorite place for great ceviche offers a generous plate for only S/.5 (five). And they have outstanding jalea. I like to go there when I’m very hungry and have the ceviche first and then the jalea. Total price for both: S/.8 (eight). Served with a pitcher of perfect chicha morada. I am always the only gringo there, which is the way I like it. It’s located in Miraflores on Calle Esperanza, near Ovalo Miraflores.
Thanks again for the interesting report. I think I’ll stick with Juane or Patarassca when I’m in Tarapoto.
Hi Raimundo,
Thanks for the recommendation, I’ll check it out next time I’m in Lima. If I walk down Esperanza from Jose Larco, will it be the first cebicheria I pass?
Cheers!
I didn´t eat much cebiche in Tarapoto (why eat cebiche when you can have picuro?) But the best cebiche I remember was in place that is right next to the market (the one I believe they are slowly closing down?) As you come to one of the market´s lower corners there is a place across the street, near all the fish stalls. It has no walls enclosing it, just a bunch of tables on a platform above street level, some crazy things painted on the wall, and the place´s name which I can´t remember. The trick is: they open early and soon after noon its all gone, you have to go early. Look for the crazy painting on the wall, and the cement platform above street level.
Sorry I can’t be more help, I just know its general whereabouts and I have to find it everytime. But I believe these directions will be enough to set you in its direction (or have fun trying)
best of luck
Hi Ayadox,
I think I know the place you’re talking about. I’ll go have another look sometime, sounds interesting. I like looking for stuff (I like picuro, too — poor little things!).
Cheers!
(p.s. interesting blog you have there)
was going to go there tonight, but thanks for heads up. best ceviche I have had was in Paracas on the small malecon there.
brilliant
A narrow escape! I’m beginning to feel a little bad for trashing the place, but the food was really poor.